Guide · Algarve

5 daysin southern Portugal

The route I take friends on when they fly in. One base, short drives, no dragging suitcases to a new place every day.

Written by a local

Base

Portimão or Lagos. From here the whole Algarve is within an hour or an hour and a half.

Car

Essential. Without one half of these places are out of reach, and buses eat the whole day. Pick it up at Faro airport the moment you land.

When to go

The season is long. September and October are still warm, and the crowds are already gone.

1

Arrive and exhale

Day 1 · Faro · Ferragudo · Praia da Rocha

The drive

Land in Faro, pick up the car, an hour to the base.

Ferragudo

A tiny fishing town across the water from Portimão: white houses, boats, narrow lanes. No tour buses here.

Dinner

Fim do Mundo in Ferragudo. The name means “the end of the world” — exactly the feeling you want on the first evening.

Sunset

Praia da Rocha, from the upper promenade.

2

Cliffs and caves

Day 2 · Benagil · Marinha · Carvoeiro

Benagil cave

Boats leave from Portimão, Carvoeiro and from Benagil beach itself. You cannot walk in — only from the water.

Praia da Marinha

The most beautiful beach in the south.

Come before 11. After that the car park is full, and it turns into a fight rather than a holiday.

Seven Hanging Valleys

The clifftop trail starts right at Marinha. The whole thing is 6 km one way. If you would rather not go far, walk the first twenty minutes: the best views are there.

Carvoeiro and Algar Seco

Cliffs at sunset. Taking the stairs down to the water is a must.

3

The west and the edge of Europe

Day 3 · Lagos · Sagres · São Vicente

Lagos

The old town, the fortress walls, tiny beaches tucked between the cliffs.

Ponta da Piedade

Those famous ochre arches and grottoes. A viewpoint at the top, stairs leading down, and boats from below for half an hour.

Sagres

A fortress on the cliff, wind and ocean on every side.

Cabo de São Vicente

The southwesternmost point of Europe. Beyond it only the Atlantic, all the way to America. Best at sunset.

Bring a windbreaker. It blows there always, even in thirty-degree heat.

4

Mountains and wine

Day 4 · Monchique · Fóia · winery

Monchique

Mountains an hour from the coast. A completely different Algarve: green, eucalyptus, cool air.

Fóia viewpoint

The highest point in the south. On a clear day you can see both coasts.

Medronho

The local spirit made from strawberry-tree berries. Distilled right there in the mountains.

Arvad Vine winery

A tasting of local varieties, snacks and sunset among the vines.

Book ahead. There are not many places, especially at weekends.

5

The east — a completely different south

Day 5 · Tavira · Cacela Velha · Ria Formosa

Tavira

The prettiest town in the Algarve — and almost without tourists. The bridge, the churches, azulejos on the façades.

Cacela Velha

A tiny village on a hill above the lagoon. A church, a fort, a dozen white houses and the view over Ria Formosa people come here for. You can walk it in half an hour, and then you do not want to leave.

Ria Formosa

A boat to a sand island: flamingos, oysters, empty beaches.

Olhão market

If you get up early — for salt, spices and fish.

Details

What to know before you go

Five things that spoil the trip most often.

  • The ocean is cold all year round, and the waves are real. On the upside, no crowds with inflatable rings.
  • Car parks at the popular beaches are small. Anything after eleven in the morning is already a fight.
  • English is spoken everywhere, markets and petrol stations included.
  • Distances are deceptively short. Twenty kilometres of mountain road is forty minutes, not fifteen.
  • What to try: cataplana, grilled sardines, ameijoas à Bulhão Pato, pastel de nata, medronho.

Next

I will build the route around you

This is the skeleton. For your dates, your budget and who you are travelling with — as a couple, with kids, with friends — the route changes a lot. Send me your dates and what matters most: beaches, towns, nature or food.

I live in southern Portugal. I know every place in this guide personally.